In a defining moment for Indian cuisine on the global stage, Semma, a small, unapologetically South Indian restaurant in Greenwich Village, has been named No. 1 on The New York Times’ annual list of best restaurants in New York. It is the first time an Indian restaurant has ever claimed the top spot since the list’s inception.
Curated by NYT food critic Pete Wells, the 2025 edition of the list focuses on ten exceptional dining destinations that reflect “New York’s most original, genre-defining kitchens.” In naming Semma the city’s best, Wells praised the restaurant for “honoring its roots without compromise” and bringing “seldom-seen South Indian dishes into the fine-dining spotlight.”
A Kitchen Without Compromise
At the helm is Chef Vijay Kumar, who hails from Tamil Nadu and brings to Semma a deeply personal interpretation of his native region’s food. Semma, which translates to “awesome” or “fantastic” in Tamil, offers bold, village-style cuisine with little Western adaptation.
Signature dishes like nathai pirattal (spiced snails), venkaya sambhar (baby eggplant in tamarind stew), and ragi dosa with country chicken aren’t designed to appease a global palate—but rather to celebrate authenticity.
“We never wanted to dilute the food. This is how my grandmother cooked,” Kumar said in a recent interview. “We wanted to make people proud of where they come from.”
More Than a Restaurant—A Movement
Semma is part of the Unapologetic Foods group, known for redefining how Indian food is perceived in the United States. Other sister ventures include Adda and Dhamaka—each challenging the notion that Indian cuisine must be fine-tuned to Western tastes.
Since its opening, Semma has earned a Michelin star and wide critical acclaim. But its recognition by The New York Times—particularly in its newly restructured top 10 list—signals a broader shift: regional Indian food is no longer exotic. It’s essential.
A Moment of Cultural Significance
Semma’s rise is about more than food—it is a moment of cultural and culinary validation for the Indian diaspora and for generations who saw their cuisine relegated to buffets and stereotypes. In topping the list, Semma joins the ranks of elite establishments like Atomix and Le Bernardin, while carving out space for coconut oil, curry leaves, and fermented batters on the world’s most celebrated plates.
This milestone also reflects a changing American palate—one that increasingly values specificity, heritage, and flavor over familiarity.
