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Home»Trending»Paris to New Persian: Mapping Mumbai’s Breakfast Heritage, One Bakery at a Time
Trending

Paris to New Persian: Mapping Mumbai’s Breakfast Heritage, One Bakery at a Time

BharatSpeaksBy BharatSpeaksApril 30, 2025No Comments4 Mins Read
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Long before the city stirs and traffic begins its daily rhythm, a different kind of awakening unfolds in Mumbai’s bylanes — one guided not by alarm clocks, but by the scent of freshly baked bread, golden-brown patties, and warm khari biscuits. From pre-Independence bakeries still kneading tradition into every bun, to modern bakeries pushing creative boundaries, Mumbai’s bakery culture remains a beloved thread in the city’s culinary fabric.

Here’s a curated journey through some of the city’s most iconic bakeries — old and new — that continue to define breakfast for generations.

1. Maska Bakery: Where Innovation Meets Nostalgia

Fusing Mumbai’s street food flavours with artisanal baking, Maska Bakery is a refreshing entrant in the city’s baking scene. Its signature ‘Kejriwal Babka’ — a tribute to the iconic Eggs Kejriwal dish — is a must-try. Food writer Nikhil Merchant calls it “a stroke of genius,” blending Bhavnagari chilli chutney, cheese, and eggs into buttery layers of babka bread. It’s creativity grounded in comfort.

2. City Bakery: Early Mornings and Eternal Memories

Founded in 1945, City Bakery in Worli has hosted everyone from Asha Bhosle to school children in search of warm croissants. Sanket Shekhar Joshi, executive chef at Avatara Mumbai, fondly recalls temple visits near Crawford Market followed by a stop at the bakery. “The cheese croissants, fresh from the oven at 5 am, defined my childhood mornings,” he shares.

Today, its menu ranges from puffs and pastries to Chinese shezwan rolls and decadent walnut brownies.

3. Paris Bakery: Condensed Milk Buns and Parsi Legacy

Tucked away in Marine Lines, Paris Bakery — established in 1955 by a Parsi family — still delights locals with its rare milk buns made from condensed milk and raisins. Priced at just Rs 25, these humble treats are baked with the same recipes preserved by the Nejadkay family for generations.

Chef Amandeep Singh from The Westin Mumbai notes how the bakery’s Shrewsbury cookies and khari biscuits evoke a sense of place and tradition. “It’s simplicity wrapped in heritage,” he says.

4. New Persian Bakery: Dadar’s Persian-Bombay Fusion Since 1934

New Persian Bakery has quietly shaped breakfast culture in Dadar for nearly a century. Opened by a family that migrated from Persia, the bakery is famous for its eggless mawa cakes and nankhatai — Indian-style shortbread cookies that have stood the test of time.

For chef Sourabh Das, the bakery is personal. “My first birthday cake was from New Persian, and the nankhatai was the first recipe I tried as a student,” he remembers.

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5. The Bread Bar: A Slice of Paris in Chembur

Founded by chef Rachi Gupta — an alumna of the École Nationale Supérieure de la Pâtisserie — The Bread Bar brings a Parisian finesse to Mumbai’s neighbourhood bakery scene. Almond croissants, buttery quiches, and the cult-favourite Turkish eggs are regulars on the menu. Chef Sushil Multani enjoys serene Sunday mornings here with his kids, a ritual marked by flaky pastries and slow sips of coffee.

6. Yazdani Bakery: Time Travel Through Breads and Apple Pie

Operating since the 1950s in Fort, Yazdani Bakery is steeped in history — both culinary and cultural. The walls display old family photographs and vintage signs, while the counters serve up brun maska and piping hot Irani chai. The iconic mawa cake and rustic apple pie are top picks for chef Amandeep Singh, who says, “Their apple pie, dusted with cinnamon, is nostalgia in every bite.”

7. American Express Bakery: A Legacy of Layers

With a legacy dating back over 117 years, American Express Bakery owes its unique name to its history of delivering baked goods to American ships. Known for its creamy Swiss rolls, soft bread puddings, and festive hot cross buns, this Byculla bakery is loved by food critic Kunal Vijayakar.

“I still remember having their chicken patties with my grandfather. But the lemon Swiss roll is something else. Making sponge is an art and a science — and they’ve nailed it,” he says.

The Soul of a City, Served Fresh

These bakeries do more than serve breakfast — they carry legacies, craft community memories, and anchor entire neighbourhoods with their comforting familiarity. From Persian-style shortbreads to Parsi milk buns and inventive croissants, each slice and bun represents Mumbai’s diversity, resilience, and love for tradition.

If you ever want to truly understand this city, start not with a tour guide, but with a walk to your nearest bakery before sunrise.

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